I was lucky enough to receive this book as a gift at Christmas, and since then I’ve been savouring its marvellous detail. Though it covers a longer period than the Long 18th century, there is ample information to interest us within its pages.
The book is in fact the catalogue of a new exhibition which is currently on show at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. The exhibit celebrates the acquisition by the museum of a major collection of European men’s, women’s and children’s clothes and accessories. I have no hope of getting to Los Angeles to see it ( the exhibit runs untill 27th March, 2011) and so it is truly wonderful to be able to pore over the very good photographs- highlighting some wonderful details- and the interesting text, including a very intriguing Preface by fashion’s current enfant terrible, John Galliano.
Let’s have a look at some of the items that interest me. First a waistcoat which would surely have appealed to Mr Knightley, though it is actually French- Shhh! Don’t tell him- as it’s subject matter is so rural:

Is this Harriet’s own dear welch cow?

And look at this beautiful dress form 1818, the overdress made of handmade lace, “Bucks” so-called because it was made in Buckinghamshire, a traditional area for bobbin lace making.
Here is a close-up detail of the lace:
In fact I am reading this book it in conjunction with the Museum’s marvellous and most excellent website: some of the items in the book are available to view in greater detail on the internet. Let’s do it together now….
This is a gentleman’s three piece velvet suit dating from 1800. The close-up of the embroidery is breath taking. Some areas of the embroidery are padded slighty to add a raised area and texture to the embroidery, almost like stumpwork. The dandelion heads are padded in this way.
If you go here however you can see more images of the suit and can zoom in on the details.
This beautifully detailed Spencer dating from 1815 is also available to view online here
So even if you can’t get to the exhibit, the museum’s excellent website and the book are beautifully presented and allow those of us sadly separated from it by thousands of miles to enjoy these wonderful clothes at one remove.
A final note: the website actually includes a wonderful free gift to talented needleworkers: free downloadable patterns which have been created from some of the garments in the collection. Go here to see. I love the banyan.



































































14 comments
January 7, 2011 at 3:22 pm
deana@lostpastremembered
What a splendid exhibit… worth going to LA for! Thanks for sharing the book… I think it’s something I need to get for my shelves. The detail is awe-inspiring… can you imagine the time to stitch such things…boggles the mind.
January 8, 2011 at 11:31 am
jfwakefield
I agree, Deana the detail is stupendous,and when one considers it was all done by hand, and probably candlelight as Cathy remarks below,then it is simply outstanding work. The book has some fabulous photographs within it. Oh for a ticket to warn LA this winter!
January 7, 2011 at 8:17 pm
Susan Holloway Scott
I received this book for Christmas, too (after begging Santa for it, of course), and it’s every bit as wonderful as you say. To all of us who love books on historic dress — this will remind you in format and in the quality of the photographs of the oversized V&A costume in detail books. An added plus is that most of the examples haven’t appeared in other books or exhibitions, and will seem excitingly fresh. Now if this style of dress would only come back in fashion–!
January 8, 2011 at 11:43 am
jfwakefield
You are quite right- the book is reminiscent of the V+A series, which I thought was excellent.. I love the plainness of the models, something I first saw in the Revolution in Fashion exhibit by the Kyoto Costume Institute. Being totally devoid of colour,but with the corrdect hair detial, they take nothing away from the exquisite detail of thw clothes. If you go here Vogue Magazine shoots Fashioning Fashion at LACMA you can see a video of a photo shoot by Vogue of some of the costunmes …and if you go here you can see a very interesting blog post on the mannequinns and how they were constructed.(the museum’s blog is worth exploring-lots of pieces on the exhibit to read-just search on Fashioning Fashion and see what is revelad unto thee)I do wish all major museums were as media savvy as this one;)
January 8, 2011 at 12:47 am
Susan Holloway Scott
Julie, don’t know if you saw this on Twitter or not — but someone who’d visited the LACMA exhibition posted her own photos on Picasa. Many more details here!
http://picasaweb.google.com/authorsaralindsey/LACMA_Fashioning_Fashion?authkey=Gv1sRgCJjLiveciKCSvgE&feat=directlink#
January 8, 2011 at 11:47 am
jfwakefield
WOW! That is fabulous-and looking at it with the catalogue in hand is almost as good as a real visit .Thank you for letting us know of it.
January 8, 2011 at 4:16 am
Cathy Allen
Spectacular, and close to my “neck of the woods” for a change! The LA County MA really is an amazing place. I’ve seen many wonderful things there that I’d never thought to see… I did not know about this show, however, so thanks for reviewing the book.
When I look at the incredible detail on these garments, and I consider the (probably) young girls and older women who created them, and were probably paid a pittance, and may have even damaged their eyesight working into the night by CANDLELIGHT (gasp!) I can hardly believe it. The handmade lace; the embroidery; the silks and satins…well… it gives me pause…
Thanks again, Julie,
CEA
P.S. thanks also to Susan, for the link!
January 8, 2011 at 11:49 am
jfwakefield
I completely agree; their work was outstanding and defies belief.And now would be so expensive to commission,the mind boggles.
January 8, 2011 at 3:32 pm
Susan Holloway Scott
Julie, thank YOU for the additional links to the Vogue shoot and the LACMA blog. I agree, the plain white mannequins are the best way to go for display. They hint at the fashionable hair and silhouette, but never intrude. (Nothing more jarring than seeing historic dress on a modern store mannequin!) This seems to be the current fashion for exhibitions – it’s the mannequin du jour, used at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Fashion Institute as well.
And yes, the first time I was aware of them was in the “Revolution in Fashion” book, which remains one of my all-time favorites. Do you have the book/catalogue from the long-ago Met show, “Dangerous Liaisons: Fashion and Furniture in the Eighteenth Century”? It, too, is an amazing book – out of print, but worth hunting down used. A very different approach to displaying the (gorgeous) 18th c. clothing – the white-faced mannequins were placed in the museum’s 18th c. period rooms and arranged like ghostly actors, as if interacting with one another. It made for a much more complete appreciation of the clothes, seeing how they reflected the furnishing and the spaces in which they were made to inhabit. Much like the Amanda Vickery series, it’s always better to see the past as a whole, and not as isolated objects in a display case.
Oh, my, we could go on swapping links like this all day–!
January 8, 2011 at 4:51 pm
jfwakefield
Yes I do have the Dangerous Liaisons catalogue (and am amazed at the prices that is now fetching on the secondhand book market! :) Speaking personally,I can easily imagine clothes in their context, so I prefer to have them displayed simply and not in rooms sets about so I can see all the detail.:) Sadly the timeframe covered in that exhibit(1778 was the date of the oldest piece of clothing on show IIRC) is just outside the scope of the limits I have set myself on this blog ;)
If anyone is intrigued by the Revolution in Fashion exhibition which I mentioned above, and has achieved iconic status in the fashion history world, then you will also be dismayed at the cost of the copies of the catalogue of the exhibit (if you can still find any).But do not despair for the Kyoto Costume Institute’s collection has been comprehensively covered in a Taschen publication which is now available in paperback-Fashion.From the 18th to the 20th Centuries. This publication(which I have in hardback) includes most of the photgrpahs of the Revolution in Fashion exhibit which covered the period 1715-1815;)
January 8, 2011 at 9:00 pm
Jill Horwich
I saw this exhibit while visiting L.A. this past September. It was amazing. I took some photos on my iPhone and posted them on Facebook. If you’re anywhere near this exhibit, by all means go see it.
January 10, 2011 at 9:58 am
jfwakefield
Hello Jill- thanks for that infomration.I’m at once jealous but pleased you saw the exhibit :) It looks fascinating.
January 12, 2011 at 1:17 pm
Alison
Looks right up my street, will put it on my wishlist I think!
January 13, 2011 at 11:02 am
jfwakefield
Alison! How lovely to “see’ you here! This is a fantastic book ,I hope someone one who has access to your wish list treats you to it!