This is a very elegant church and I’ve always loved seeing it on its hill, on the approach to Bath from the A4…
Here is its position in Bath,
shown on a section from this larger map of Bath in 1803 from John Feltham’s Guide to all the Watering and Sea-Bathing Places etc
The church is number 1 on this map, which can be enlarged if you click on it. You can see the position of the church -marked as a black section of the top of the piece of land between Walcot and Cornwall Buildings: if you look carefully you can also see the site of the Walcot burial ground to the south-east of the church.
This church holds very special Jane Austen associations, as it was the church where her mother and father married and also where the reverend George Austen was buried.
The building we can see now-still a functioning church-
was rebuilt after the Austen’ wedding, because of the boom in the Bath population in the mid 18th century. The parish of St. Swithin’s decided to demolish the old medieval church on the site and to rebuild, employing the architect of St James ,Bath, John Palmer as their architect for their more spacious and modern church.
This is how Walter Ison in his wonderful book, The Gregorian Buildings of Bath, describes the exterior and the interior of the building:
The exterior is adorned with a giant order of Ionic pilasters with plain shafts ,which rise from a deep plinth and divide the side elevations into six equal bays. The two tiers of widows, low segmental-headed lights to the ground floor and tall arched lights to the galleries, are framed by heavily moulded architraves. A plain strongcourse marks the gallery level and the fronts are finished with an entablature and plain parapet. Low wings containing vestries and staircases, flank the of the tower, which forms the centre of the west front…
The interior measure approximately 68 feet by 52 feet and is similar to that of St James’s Church except that here three widely spaced columns stand on each side of the nave and the gallery is independent of them. The alter stands in a shallow bay corbelled out over the lower road and the side walls are adorned with many interesting memorial tablets including one to the architect, John Palmer.
Back to Jane Austen…Jane’s mother, Cassandra Leigh was living in Bath at the time of her marriage to George Austen in 1764. Her father had retired to Bath in the early 1760s, and had died there in January 1764, and was then buried in the subject of our post today, St Swithin’s Church.
The Austens married on the 26th April 1764 by special license at St. Swithin’s
This is a copy of the register recording their marriage, which you can enlarge as you can all the illustrations in this post, simply by clicking on it.
In a characteristically practical manner, Mrs Austen did not appear at church arrayed in any special wedding dress of fine embroidered silk. Instead she wore a typical mid 18th century travelling dress -a habit-of red worsted wool.
Her dress must have been very similar to this one held by the Victoria and Albert Museum in their collection. If you go here you can see a 360 degree view of the dress and a short description of it.
This dress was indeed very practical garb for the wife of a country rector. And it gave good service to the family for when no longer fit to be worn as a dress, it was adapted as clothes for the Austen children.
Frank Austen , one of Jane’s sailor brothers, was by all accounts a fearless little boy and had an instinctive gift for horse trading. When he was seven years old he bought a pony for £1, 11 shillings and 6 pence, which he trained and hunted and at the end of two years ownership sold for £2 12 shillings and 6 pence, thereby making a profit of over one guinea. The wedding dress was finally used up to make Francis a jacket and a pair breeches so that he could appear in style in the hunting field as a child.
When Jane Austen was staying with Edward Austen at Queen’s Square in June 1799 she was of course commissioned by her sister, Cassandra, to buy articles of clothing, and in particular to find out what the latest fashion was so that they could keep up with the times in rural Hampshire.
Bath was (and still is) a wonderful centre for shopping: it impressed the fashion-obsessed Mrs Allen in Northanger Abbey :
“Bath is a charming place, sir; there are so many good shops here. We are sadly off in the country; not but what we have very good shops in Salisbury, but it is so far to go — eight miles is a long way; Mr. Allen says it is nine, measured nine; but I am sure it cannot be more than eight; and it is such a fag — I come back tired to death. Now, here one can step out of doors and get a thing in five minutes.”
Northanger Abbey,Chapter 3
But in Jane Austen’s case, the shops proved disappointing:
Flowers are very much worn, and fruit is still more the thing. Elizabeth has a bunch of strawberries, and I have seen grapes, cherries, plums, and apricots. There are likewise almonds and raisins, French plums, and tamarinds at the grocers’, but I have never seen any of them in hats. A plum or greengage would cost three shillings; cherries and grapes about five, I believe, but this is at some of the dearest shops. My aunt has told me of a very cheap one, near Walcot Church, to which I shall go in guest of something for you.
(See :Letter to Cassandra Austen dated June 2nd 1799)
The search for fruit in Walcot was not very productive: Jane Austen’s Aunt, Mrs Leigh Perrot typically sending Jane on a fools errand in search of cheap decorative fruit, sending her to a cheap shop where annoyingly only flowers were to be had:
We have been to the cheap shop, and very cheap we found it, but there are only flowers made there, no fruit; and as I could get four or five very pretty sprigs of the former for the same money which would procure only one Orleans plum — in short, could get more for three or four shillings than I could have means of bringing home — I cannot decide on the fruit till I hear from you again. Besides, I cannot help thinking that it is more natural to have flowers grow out of the head than fruit. What do you think on that subject?
(See: Letter to Cassandra Austen dated June 11th, 1799).
I tend to agree…flowers and not fruit sprouting from the head seems far more natural, but I am not sure exactly why…
The last Jane Austen association with St Swithin’s is rather poingnant: Jane’s father, Geroge Austen was buried there after his death in Bath on the 21st January 1805, and this is a picture of the original ledgerstone, which indicated the place of his burial.
This was re-sited and renovated by the Bath and Bristol branch of the Jane Austen Society in 2000, and a new sign recording George Austen’s associations with the church was erected:
You might like to note that Fanny Burney –one of Jane Austen’s favourite novelists-
and her husband who lived in Bath in the early 19th century, were also buried in the Walcot burial ground and at a later date a memorial was erected near the church commemorating them.





























































12 comments
March 3, 2010 at 1:30 pm
jane travers
Thanks for another brilliant and informative blog post, Julie.
I’m delighted to read all about St. Swithin’s Church, since I visited Bath recently and wasn’t at all sure I’d found the right place.
Your story about Mrs Cassandra Austen’s wedding dress and its history I found particularly interesting! For me it’s the little minutiae of history that bring the whole picture to life.
Keep up the good work.
March 3, 2010 at 1:51 pm
jfwakefield
Thank you, Jane and how lovely it is to “see” you here. As you can probably tell its the tiny details that I love too:I can just imagine a furious seven year old Francis Austen hurtling around the fields of Hampshire on his bargain chestnut pony in a red jacket and breeches!
March 3, 2010 at 10:37 pm
caitlin
Do we know why her folks were married by special license? I know the law had changed by the time Jane was of marriagable age so it was limited to the aristocracy. Were the choices banns, common license, and special licesne (the latter two allowing more privacy)
March 4, 2010 at 12:43 pm
jfwakefield
I’m tempted to reply that it was all due to Mrs Austen’s delusions of grandeur (a la Mrs Bennet in Pride and Prejudice)….but in truth I have no real certain reason why they chose a special license over a common license which would certainly have been available to them under the provisions of the 1753 Clandestine Marriages Act. Perhaps Mrs Austen no longer lived in the parish where her father was buried and wanted to be married there because of that association with her family
March 4, 2010 at 10:53 pm
caitlin
That makes sense, wanting to be married in a place that had special meaning for her. Thanks!
March 4, 2010 at 12:08 am
Cathy Allen
I remember reading in a JA biography about her parents’ wedding, but I never thought to see the church, nor to learn so much about it (the Walter Ison book sounds lovely, by the way; I’ve added it to my Amazon wish list…). I loved seeing the copy of the Wedding Register page; fascinating, and I look forward to your answer to Caitlin’s question, above. I’m very much a detail-oriented person, too, so you’ve got another fan here. (They say that God is in the details, you know.)
I also remember reading about the red wedding dress, and Frank’s later riding suit; what a practical woman was Mrs. Austen, and what wheeler-dealer was little Frank! I wonder how long it took him to save so much money to buy the horse? AND, he made a profit selling it; what a kid!
I got a laugh about the fruit or flowers, and I agree: flowers for me, definitely. I loved Fanny’s hat too; it reminds me of a hat I made in the early 80′s when I was in a production of “My Fair Lady.” Set about 100 years later, but I wanted a pink picture hat, like my Grandmother wore in a picture from 1910.
Thanks Julie,
CEA
March 4, 2010 at 12:45 pm
jfwakefield
I thought the Devil was in the detail!LOL
Im glad that you enjoyed the post;-)
March 4, 2010 at 3:24 pm
Cathy Allen
LOL — different strokes for different folks — Heh!
March 4, 2010 at 2:40 pm
Alexa Adams
It does appear a very elegant church, but I wish I could see what the Medieval structure it replaced. I also feel a bit sad that they replaced George Austen’s original ledger stone, the one Jane would have known.
My first attempt at millinery was based on this passage from Austen’s letters, as I tried rather unsuccessfully to attach a rather unruly bunch of grapes to a straw bonnet. The result was not what I had envisioned, but acceptable, and the hat has now become the favorite of my best friend, who has even worn it during volley ball tournaments – an amazing feat when you consider how much the grapes weigh.
March 4, 2010 at 7:03 pm
jfwakefield
If you go here you can see some drawings etc of what the original church looked like
I should imagine your hat is lovely,but the thought of fruit on hats as decoration always put me in mind of Mary Poppins’ hat with its cherries
March 5, 2010 at 1:03 pm
Alexa Adams
I don’t imagine I’ll be attempting to affix anymore fruit to my head in the near future. The hat is cute but I could never bear to wear it as it is terribly heavy and lopsided. I’ll stick with flowers in the future. Far more natural.
March 9, 2010 at 1:52 pm
Jane Austen in Bath :Green Park Buildings « austenonly
[...] Austen was buried in Walcot Church…and so began a period of wandering for the Austen ladies. Their income immediately being [...]